Captain Manmohan Singh Kohli, a titan of Indian mountaineering, has concluded his remarkable journey at the venerable age of 93. Revered for spearheading India's groundbreaking 1965 Everest expedition, his life was a testament to extraordinary courage and unwavering dedication. Beyond the peaks, Kohli's multifaceted career left an indelible mark as an author, editor, and a guiding force within prominent mountaineering institutions, shaping the very landscape of adventure in India and beyond. His legacy, encompassing audacious climbs, inspiring leadership, and a deep commitment to environmental preservation, continues to resonate, inspiring future generations to reach for new heights.
The Illustrious Journey of a Mountaineering Visionary
Born on a winter's day, December 11, 1930, in the historic town of Haripur, now nestled within Pakistan, Manmohan Singh Kohli embarked on a path that would lead him to the world's highest summits. His early years saw him joining the Indian Navy in 1950, where he ascended to the distinguished rank of Commander, honing the exceptional leadership skills that would later define his mountaineering prowess. By 1956, the majestic Himalayas beckoned, marking the commencement of his illustrious alpine career.
Captain Kohli's adventurous spirit propelled him through more than two dozen expeditions across the formidable Greater Ranges. In 1956, he conquered the towering 7,672-meter Saser Kangri in the Karakoram. A few years later, in 1959, alongside K.P. Sharma, he achieved the second ascent of the formidable 6,861-meter Nanda Kot in the Kumaon Himalaya. The early 1960s witnessed Kohli's leadership in three more triumphant expeditions, including the pioneering ascent of Annapurna III, a challenging climb of the 7,816-meter Nanda Devi, and an intrepid journey to the 7,198-meter Nepal Peak. Later in that transformative decade, he led and successfully summited Kabru Dome and Rathong, solidifying India's presence in the eastern Himalayas. Notably, in 1965, he undertook a clandestine Indian-American mission involving a nuclear-powered device, though extreme conditions prevented a summit.
However, it was in 1965 that Captain Kohli etched his name into the annals of history, commanding India's first successful expedition to the majestic Mount Everest. Under his inspiring guidance, an astonishing nine climbers from his team reached the roof of the world between May 20 and 29. This monumental achievement set a new global record for the highest number of summiters on a single expedition, a record that stood unchallenged for an impressive 17 years. Reflecting on this remarkable feat, the future Prime Minister of India, Indira Gandhi, lauded Kohli's leadership as “a masterpiece of planning, organization, teamwork, individual effort, and leadership.”
Following his Everest triumph, Kohli continued his explorations, scaling various European peaks in the esteemed company of the legendary Tenzing Norgay. From 1982 to 1983, he pioneered India's first civilian expedition to the icy expanse of Antarctica, providing invaluable support for scientific research.
Beyond his active climbing days, Captain Kohli remained a pivotal figure in the mountaineering world. As president and vice-president of the prestigious Himalayan Club from 1980 to 1983, he meticulously edited the revered Himalayan Journal. His tenure as president of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation from 1989 to 1993 saw him passionately advocate for adventure sports and youth engagement. In 1989, he co-founded the Himalayan Environment Trust with Sir Edmund Hillary, an initiative that garnered the support of esteemed figures like Maurice Herzog, Reinhold Messner, Junko Tabei, and Chris Bonington. His profound impact extended globally, as he tirelessly promoted mountaineering and trekking through numerous presentations worldwide.
Captain Kohli's literary contributions are equally significant, with notable works including Nine Atop Everest, Spies in the Himalayas (co-authored with Kenneth Conboy), The Great Himalayan Climb, and his memoir, A Life Full of Adventures.
His extraordinary achievements were widely recognized, earning him prestigious accolades such as the Padma Bhushan (1965), the Arjuna Award (1965), the Ati Vishisht Seva Medal (AVSM), and the Tenzing Norgay Lifetime Achievement Award. He frequently shared his invaluable insights as a lecturer at esteemed institutions like the Alpine Club (UK) and the American Alpine Club.
The passing of Captain Manmohan Singh Kohli signifies the close of a truly monumental chapter in the history of exploration. Yet, his adventurous spirit, visionary leadership, profound writings, and dedicated conservation efforts will undoubtedly continue to inspire countless individuals to embrace the challenges of the natural world and push the boundaries of human endeavor for generations to come.
The life and legacy of Captain M.S. Kohli serve as a powerful reminder that true greatness extends far beyond individual accomplishments. His unwavering commitment to exploration, coupled with his dedication to nurturing the next generation of adventurers and preserving the pristine beauty of our planet, offers a profound inspiration. As we reflect on his remarkable journey, we are reminded of the transformative power of leadership, the importance of teamwork in the face of daunting challenges, and the enduring human desire to explore the unknown. His story encourages us all to seek our own summits, not just in the physical world, but in every aspect of our lives, striving for excellence and contributing to a greater good.