Unveiling 'Zindabad': A New Horizon on Spantik's East Ridge

A Daring First Ascent: Forging a Path on Spantik's Unconquered East Ridge

Between June 2 and 7, a two-person team comprising Mueez Ud Din from Pakistan and Mathieu Maynadier from France achieved a remarkable feat by establishing a novel climbing route on the untouched East Ridge of Spantik, a mountain reaching 7,029 meters in the Karakoram range. Although their ascent culminated at 6,999 meters, just shy of the true summit, due to a massive, dangerous wind slab, their achievement is monumental. They named their challenging new line 'Zindabad,' meaning \"Long Live\" in Urdu, grading it M5, A1, with an 80-degree incline over an 1,800-meter stretch.

The Expedition's Foundation: From Initial Doubts to Base Camp Success

The journey to Spantik was a comprehensive undertaking, involving Maynadier as the lead climber, Ud Din, a videographer, a documentary filmmaker, a drone operator, and two cooks. Forty-two porters supported the team during the initial phase of their expedition. The mission itself almost faced cancellation due to escalating tensions between Pakistan and India, which led to numerous other expeditions pulling out. By May 20, Maynadier's group was potentially the sole expedition remaining in Skardu. Following an extensive drive, they reached Arandu, a small village in Baltistan's Shigar Valley, which serves as the traditional gateway to Spantik's base camp.

Navigating the Approach: Challenges and Acclimatization Endeavors

The team arrived at base camp on May 26 after a strenuous three-day trek, covering 35 kilometers of crevassed glacier terrain. This phase was not without its difficulties; a porter's fall into a crevasse, though fortunately without injury, caused temporary unrest among the group. After successful negotiations, they pressed on. Their acclimatization process involved two days of ascending to higher elevations, spending nights at 5,200m and 5,800m along Spantik's conventional southeast ridge route, before returning to base camp for rest on June 9, preparing for the final push.

The Ascent: A Four-Day Battle Against Nature's Elements

With a narrow weather window presenting itself, Ud Din and Maynadier embarked on their summit bid via the east ridge. Ud Din recounted their patience, waiting 25 days, with 10 spent at base camp, for the opportune moment. They departed from base camp, situated at 4,200 meters above a heavily crevassed glacier, and embarked on a four-day climb covering 1,800 meters. Their journey saw them cross a bergschrund at 5,200 meters, ultimately reaching their highest point at 6,999 meters. The decision to retreat, though difficult, was made in the face of an insurmountable wind slab and excessive snow, prioritizing safety over a full summit. Ud Din expressed that the completed route itself was the true objective.

An Epic Descent and the Ridge's Intricacies: Overcoming Technical Hurdles

The ascent necessitated three bivouacs. The descent involved connecting their newly forged path to Spantik's conventional route, with one additional bivouac at 5,800 meters. After a day and a half, the pair successfully returned to base camp, concluding a demanding five-day round trip. The east ridge presented a complex mix of snow sections and technical mixed climbing. As they gained altitude, the ridge narrowed into a razor-thin edge of snow and rock, demanding precise and cautious navigation.

Conquering the Crux: A Test of Skill and Endurance

Maynadier revealed that the most challenging section of the climb emerged on their final day: two pitches of mixed climbing rated M5, where ice-covered granite necessitated delicate footwork and expert ice axe placements. An A1 aid section further tested their technical abilities, requiring inventive solutions to surmount an overhanging rock face. Maynadier noted the increasing steepness with altitude, compounding the ridge's inherent exposure and making every movement a calculated risk. Despite clear skies on the first two days, deteriorating conditions on days three and four, including snow flurries, obscured holds and impeded progress. Their final bivouac at 6,700 meters was particularly trying, as 20 centimeters of fresh snow blanketed their camp. Maynadier described the night as \"a little stressful,\" marked by howling winds and a snow-laden tent upon waking. Despite these formidable challenges, their perseverance yielded a significant reward. Ud Din proudly shared on social media their return with more than just frostbite and memories, while Maynadier expressed satisfaction with their creation, calling it \"a really cool line.\"

Spantik's Legacy: A History of Bold Ascents and Uncharted Territory

Spantik holds a rich history within the climbing community, first summited in 1955 by a German expedition via the southeast ridge. Early attempts, like the one in 1906 by American explorers Fanny and William Bullock Workman who reached 6,700 meters, were groundbreaking for their time. Subsequent milestones include the 1978 Japanese ascent of the south ridge and the 1987 climb of the striking northwest pillar by British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders. However, the east ridge remained untouched until Maynadier and Ud Din's recent bold endeavor. The American Alpine Journal confirms no prior ascents of this challenging route. Unlike the more common guided, fixed-rope ascents on Spantik, their approach adhered to the purist ethos of modern alpine climbing, marking a new chapter in the mountain's storied past and revealing its untapped potential.

Mathieu Maynadier: A Veteran of High-Altitude Milestones

Mathieu Maynadier, a 38-year-old French guide from Briançon, boasts an impressive career marked by numerous first ascents. His notable achievements include the 2010 first ascent of Lunag II (6,812m) in Nepal via the southwest face, a route that earned a Piolet d'Or nomination. In 2012, he opened a new route on Latok II (7,108m) in the Karakoram, reaching the southeast summit. The following year, Maynadier achieved the first ascent of Gaurishankar's (7,134m) south face. In 2015, he established a new route on Dzasampatse (6,295m) in Nepal, stopping just short of the summit due to unstable snow. His extensive experience also includes a 2017 summit of Gasherbrum II and a close call in 2018 in Pakistan's Tagas Valley, where he sustained injuries after a rockfall. Despite this, he made a remarkable recovery. In 2021, he and Tom Livingstone attempted Pumari Chhish East, retreating just 100 meters from the summit. The next year, Maynadier completed the first ski descent of Diran (7,266m) in the Karakoram. Most recently, in 2023, he co-led the opening of \"Goldfish\" on Meru South's (6,570m) southeast face in India.

Mueez Ud Din: A Rising Star in Pakistani Mountaineering

Muizz Ud Din, a burgeoning talent from Pakistan, symbolizes a new generation of local mountaineers. His profound local knowledge and unwavering determination proved crucial to the expedition's success. This collaboration between Ud Din and Maynadier bridges global and local climbing communities, and their ascent potentially marks the first major new route established in Pakistan by a local climber. Maynadier expressed hope that this achievement signifies a significant leap forward for the Pakistani climbing community. For Ud Din, 'Zindabad' transcends a mere climbing route; it stands as an inspiration for aspiring Pakistani climbers, affirming that technical, high-altitude ascents are indeed within their grasp.