A recent push towards the summit of Dhaulagiri, standing at an impressive 8,167 meters, has seen several climbing teams withdraw. While specific details remain scarce regarding the retreat of one group, a lack of proper acclimatization has been cited by others. As these teams descend, two additional groups are now ascending the formidable peak, with their sights set on a Monday summit, hoping to capitalize on an expected window of favorable weather. The unpredictable nature of Dhaulagiri continues to underscore the immense challenges inherent in high-altitude mountaineering.
Among those who turned back were skiers Vitaly Lazo and Anton Pugovkin. Lazo recounted their arduous night ascent, reaching a wide couloir at 7,700 meters by dawn. He hinted at unusual occurrences near a site where five Russian climbers tragically perished in an avalanche last year, suggesting these events would be further elaborated in a forthcoming film. Despite the mystery, Lazo and Pugovkin ultimately attributed their decision to descend from 7,900 meters to insufficient acclimatization, having forgone a third acclimatization trip in an ambitious bid to seize the current weather window. They concluded that continuing their ascent would have jeopardized their safe return.
Benjamin Lieber, a seasoned Western guide affiliated with 14 Peaks Expedition, confirmed his group's inability to reach the apex but refrained from disclosing particulars. He emphasized Dhaulagiri's imposing nature and the capricious conditions, remarking on the mountain's volatile weather and perilous snow-covered inclines. Japanese climber Naoko Watanabe, who successfully summited Dhaulagiri in 2021, also embarked on a summit attempt alongside a partner named Sato. However, Sato's sudden weakness forced both climbers to retreat from an elevation of 7,755 meters, highlighting the extreme physical demands of the climb.
As these earlier attempts concluded with descents, a new wave of climbers initiated what is likely the final summit bid of the current season. This cohort includes the Hungarian duo David Klein and Marci Nagy, who are undertaking their ascent without supplemental oxygen or personal porters. Nagy had previously faced a medical setback, requiring an airlift to a hospital for kidney stones. Despite this, Klein's support team has conveyed their expectation for a summit on October 13th. They will not be alone on the challenging fixed ropes, as a team from Imagine Nepal also harbors aspirations of reaching the summit on the same Monday.
The current climbing season on Dhaulagiri has been a testament to both human resilience and the mountain's formidable power. While some expeditions have concluded with retreats, often due to the harsh realities of extreme altitude and insufficient acclimatization, new attempts are continuously underway. The pursuit of the summit remains a potent draw for mountaineers, who meticulously plan their ascents, often relying on narrow weather windows to navigate the mountain's treacherous terrain. The stories emerging from Dhaulagiri serve as a powerful reminder of the intricate balance between ambition, preparation, and the raw, untamed forces of nature.