Adventure Travel

Last Chance: Two Climbers' Desperate Summit Bid on Makalu

2025-10-10

In an extraordinary display of unwavering resolve, two Russian mountaineers, Denis Aleksenko and Artem Tsentsevitsky, are embarking on a high-stakes final attempt to conquer Makalu, the world's fifth-highest mountain. After enduring 45 arduous days on the colossal 8,481-meter peak in complete isolation, their resources are critically low, and time is running out. However, a recent shift in weather and snow conditions has reignited their hope, propelling them toward one ultimate push for the summit. Their audacious, self-reliant endeavor starkly contrasts with the heavily supported expeditions prevalent in contemporary mountaineering, evoking the spirit of classic exploratory ascents.

Aleksenko and Tsentsevitsky's journey on Makalu has been defined by a relentless battle against the elements and dwindling supplies. Having spent over six weeks alone on the mountain, they faced the very real prospect of abandoning their quest just days ago. Their fourth rotation saw them reach an altitude of 6,600 meters, where they retrieved their tent after a grueling climb through deep, unstable snow. Yet, a serendipitous change in conditions on their descent—specifically, the stabilization of the previously treacherous snow—offered a glimmer of opportunity. This unexpected improvement fueled their decision to press on, despite the immense challenges that lay ahead.

Their expedition is characterized by a stark lack of financial backing. The duo's budget is so constrained that they cannot even afford to maintain their Base Camp until their return. Arrangements have been made for porters to clear the camp on Sunday, leaving their friend, Simona Samilenko, to await them alone with minimal provisions. This shoestring operation underscores the raw, unadorned nature of their climb, a stark departure from the often luxurious support systems enjoyed by many contemporary mountaineers.

Aleksenko articulated their dilemma with poignant clarity: \"We have neither the time nor the resources for the return trip to Kathmandu... but we also can't afford to leave the mountain after so much work without attempting the summit.\" Their commitment to reaching the peak transcends the logistical and financial hurdles they face. They anticipate remaining on the mountain until October 17th, accepting the likelihood of incurring significant costs for a helicopter evacuation back to Lukla, should they be too exhausted for the arduous trek down. Following this, Tsentsevitsky is scheduled to lead another climbing group on Ama Dablam, adding another layer of pressure to their already demanding schedule.

The conditions above 7,500 meters, the highest point they've reached so far, remain largely unknown. Their previous ascent to this altitude during their third rotation showcased their resilience and skill. As they embark on this final summit push, updates from the climbers will cease, emphasizing the intense focus and isolation of their endeavor. Their journey embodies the enduring human spirit of exploration and the profound dedication required to confront the world's most formidable peaks.

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