A recent mountaineering triumph has captivated the global climbing community: the successful establishment of a demanding new route on Jirishanca's east face in the Peruvian Andes. This remarkable feat, accomplished by a skilled team of three, represents a pinnacle of alpine climbing, showcasing both technical prowess and strategic route-finding on one of the range's most formidable peaks. Their journey through challenging terrain and variable conditions underscores the dedication required to forge new paths in high-altitude environments.
This innovative ascent not only adds a significant line to Jirishanca's climbing history but also highlights the unique geological characteristics of the Huayhuash range, known for its exceptional limestone. The team's choice to pursue an alpine-style climb, relying on speed and efficiency rather than extensive support, further elevates the achievement, positioning it as a potential benchmark for mountaineering in the current season. Their ability to adapt to the mountain's changing moods and execute a complex multi-pitch climb with precision exemplifies the cutting edge of modern mountaineering.
The 'Kolibri' Ascent: A Technical Masterpiece
The recent ascent on Jirishanca's eastern side by Dani Arnold, Alexander Huber, and Simon Gietl has unveiled a challenging 1,300-meter pathway, potentially earning the distinction of the year's most significant climb. This 31-pitch route, named 'Kolibri,' reflecting Jirishanca's Quechua meaning of 'hummingbird,' was completed over three days in a pure alpine style, from July 13-15. The team successfully navigated the route, making two bivouacs on the wall, and reached the east summit at 6,028 meters, as confirmed by their GPS devices. Climbers now typically target the east summit due to the main peak's precarious snow conditions and elevated objective dangers, a testament to the mountain's inherent risks. The 'Kolibri' moniker not only pays homage to the mountain's indigenous name but also subtly references the intense heartbeat experienced by climbers confronting Jirishanca's imposing and steep southeast face, which resembles a hummingbird's beak.
The successful establishment of the 'Kolibri' route stands as a testament to the climbers' exceptional skill and meticulous planning. Their journey through a demanding vertical landscape involved overcoming sections of slabby, often overhanging rock, requiring intricate belaying techniques. The route demanded a blend of technically advanced pitches, with some challenging runouts, necessitating free-climbing up to a formidable UIAA grade 8, interspersed with technical aid climbing up to A2. A critical aspect of their strategy involved integrating parts of the historic Italian route's ice ramp in the middle section, before transitioning into a direct line of cracks and fissures towards the steep east ridge. This path ultimately converged with the original 1957 first ascent route, showcasing a blend of pioneering spirit and respect for the mountain's rich history. The climbers lauded the exceptional quality of the limestone, describing it as 'solid, rough, and grippy,' which, coupled with perfect conditions and seamless teamwork, contributed to a truly memorable and significant first ascent.
Jirishanca's Enduring Legacy and Challenging Routes
The Huayhuash range, a unique limestone formation where peaks exceed 5,000 meters, provided the backdrop for this historic climb. Jirishanca, a mountain steeped in climbing lore, has attracted elite mountaineers since its first ascent in 1957. The 'Kolibri' route strategically weaves between existing French and Italian routes, briefly utilizing the Italian Ramp for three pitches before resuming its direct trajectory. Post-second bivouac, the team followed the 1957 Austrian route by Tony Egger and Siegfried Jungmair to the summit, paying homage to the peak's initial conquerors. Egger's team, initially considering the southeast face impassable, chose the east spur, underscoring the mountain's long-standing reputation for difficulty. This historical context highlights the continuous evolution of climbing techniques and risk assessment on Jirishanca, a peak that has consistently pushed the boundaries of alpine achievement.
Jirishanca's history is marked by a series of audacious ascents, each adding a layer to its formidable reputation. The 'French Route,' also known as 'Tambo, Churros y Amigos,' was established in 2003 by Clouet and Jourdain, notable for being free of bolts on such a challenging face, though not in pure alpine style. The 'Italian Route,' opened in the same year by Stefano DeLuca, Paolo Stoppini, and Alessandro Piccini, initially involved numerous bolts and was completed to the Egger/Jungmair route. It was later free-climbed in 2022 by Josh Wharton and Vince Anderson without the use of bolts, further emphasizing the shift towards purer climbing ethics. These varied approaches highlight Jirishanca's role as a proving ground for climbers worldwide, where each new route not only charts a physical path but also contributes to the rich narrative of mountaineering innovation and human endurance.