Max Kilcoyne, a recent university graduate, embarked on an extraordinary mountaineering season on Denali, North America's highest peak. Over 24 days, he completed three significant ski descents: the solo Orient Express, the Messner Couloir with companions, and the challenging Rescue Gully after ascending the Cassin Ridge. His remarkable achievements highlight his skill and determination in high-altitude environments, showcasing an impressive blend of climbing and skiing prowess. Despite facing challenging conditions and solo endeavors, Kilcoyne's dedication to his objectives on Denali remained unwavering, culminating in a highly successful and memorable expedition.

Kilcoyne's adventure began on May 18, when he arrived in Talkeetna with fellow mountain athletes Anna DeMonte and Jack Kuenzle. Their initial plan was for Kilcoyne to support DeMonte and Kuenzle in their attempt to set a fastest known time (FKT) on McKinley, followed by his own ascent of the Cassin Ridge. After a weather-induced delay, the team finally flew to the Kahiltna Glacier on May 21. The subsequent three days involved a grueling trek, hauling heavy sleds up the Kahiltna Glacier to reach 14,000 Camp, situated at 4,300 meters on a plateau beneath the mountain’s upper slopes. This arduous journey served as a challenging prelude to the high-altitude exploits that would follow.

On May 28, Kilcoyne undertook a solo expedition up the Orient Express Couloir. His companions remained at camp while he ventured into the unknown, navigating deep snow and poor visibility without the aid of fixed lines or a partner. By 5,400 meters, he had exhausted his food supply, and the wind intensified, forcing him to walk backward to shield his face. Despite these formidable obstacles, he pressed onward, stopping just 45 meters shy of the summit at 6,140 meters. He made a pragmatic decision, prioritizing safety given the freezing temperatures and the need to manage his equipment effectively. His descent was described as an exhilarating experience, skiing through steep powder in solitary bliss, a moment he considers one of the most euphoric of his life. Returning to camp, he was physically exhausted but mentally invigorated by the successful solo run.

A week later, on June 6, Kilcoyne joined Wesley Perkins and Emmett Itoi to tackle the Messner Couloir. This direct line drops 1,500 meters from just below McKinley’s summit, and it had yet to be skied that season. The trio ascended the couloir from 14,000 Camp, with Itoi pausing at 5,900 meters. Kilcoyne and Perkins continued to the summit, enduring powerful winds. Their return journey involved rejoining Itoi and skiing down the Couloir, which offered stable snow and clear visibility. Their descent drew the attention of everyone at 14,000 Camp, as they were the first to open the route for the season. Kilcoyne noted the feeling of commitment involved in skiing such a vast face without precise knowledge of their position, but the descent was executed flawlessly.

The pinnacle of Kilcoyne’s season was his long-anticipated ascent of the Cassin Ridge, a route that held significant personal importance for him. Partnering again with Perkins, they departed 14,000 Camp on June 10, using the Seattle Ramp to reach the base of the route. Their ascent was a light and fast endeavor, with the first night spent on a narrow ice ledge. The second night proved even more challenging, as they bivouacked tied to an ice screw on a ledge barely wide enough for one person, losing one of Kilcoyne’s food bags in the process. The climb tested their mixed climbing abilities, navigating M4/M5 terrain and simul-climbing with skis strapped to their backs. Managing gear in extreme temperatures also presented considerable difficulties, with gloves and ski boots constantly getting wet and freezing solid. On the evening of June 13, they successfully topped out on the Kahiltna Horn and made an 1,800-meter descent back to 14,000 Camp via Rescue Gully. They opted not to proceed to the true summit, given their fatigue and the inherent risks. Despite a recent avalanche fatality in Rescue Gully, they managed their descent safely.

This remarkable season on Denali brought together Kilcoyne's diverse alpine skills, honed through years of trail running, ski mountaineering, and mixed climbing. Despite unforeseen challenges, including a partner's injury and subsequent solo adaptation, Kilcoyne's persistent drive allowed him to achieve multiple significant ski descents and a demanding ascent of the Cassin Ridge. His experience underscores the profound personal rewards of pushing one's limits in the high mountains, culminating in an extraordinary demonstration of alpine versatility and resilience.