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A recent expedition saw a Japanese climbing trio achieve a remarkable feat by completing the first ascent of the East Face of Hasho II, a formidable 6,080-meter peak nestled in the remote Karakoram region. This challenging climb, undertaken by Yudai Suzuki, Genki Narumi, and Hiroki Yamamoto, involved navigating treacherous terrain and establishing a new route on the mountain. Their success, detailed in the American Alpine Journal, highlights their meticulous planning, adaptability, and resilience in extreme conditions. The team initially planned to ascend Changi II but pivoted to Hasho II's unclimbed East Face due to unfavorable rock quality on their original objective, ultimately making a historic contribution to mountaineering in the region.

The three Japanese climbers, Yudai Suzuki, Genki Narumi, and Hiroki Yamamoto, embarked on their ambitious journey from September 9 to 13. Their initial target was Changi II, but after a thorough reconnaissance, they observed the rock conditions to be excessively loose. This necessitated a strategic change in plans, leading them to scout for an alternative within the Lachit Valley. It was there that they identified the unclimbed East Face of Hasho II as a more viable and appealing objective, citing its superior rock quality and manageable objective dangers. This adaptability was crucial to their eventual success.

Their ascent involved establishing an Advanced Base Camp at an elevation of 5,090 meters. From there, they made two bivouacs, at 5,510 meters and 5,850 meters on a high plateau. Suzuki vividly recounted the discomfort of these high-altitude camps, describing the bivouac sites as barely wide enough for his shoulders, making for a cold and challenging experience. Despite the arduous conditions, these bivouacs were essential for their multi-day climb. The route they forged, an 880-meter path, was graded 5.10, A1, 50\u00ba, VI, indicating a mix of technical rock climbing, aid climbing, and steep snow/ice sections.

The initial three pitches of the climb, rated 5.10, presented their own unique difficulties, primarily due to the presence of significant amounts of sand and dirt within the cracks. The climbers had to meticulously clear these obstructions to secure their ascent. Suzuki noted that while photographs might suggest pristine granite, the reality was a rugged, wild alpine rock face. On the third day of their climb, the team successfully navigated the final blue ice section, reaching the summit before commencing their descent back to Advanced Base Camp as night fell.

The descent itself brought further challenges, particularly the heavily crevassed terrain. Suzuki revealed that the team fell into hidden crevasses approximately ten times. Fortunately, each instance resulted in only leg-deep plunges, preventing serious injury. This harrowing experience underscored the unpredictable nature of the glaciated environment. According to information from the American Alpine Journal, this marks only the second overall ascent of Hasho II, with a Russian team led by Konstantin Markevich having made the first ascent in 2019 via the west flank and south-southeast ridge, further cementing the significance of the Japanese trio's achievement.

The successful first ascent of Hasho II's East Face by the Japanese team not only adds a new chapter to the history of Karakoram mountaineering but also serves as an inspiring example of exploration and perseverance. Their methodical approach, from initial scouting and route selection to overcoming physical and environmental obstacles, demonstrates the dedication required to conquer such remote and challenging peaks. This expedition stands as a testament to their skill, teamwork, and the enduring human spirit of adventure.