While Europe boasts numerous enchanting train routes, from Scotland's historic West Highland Line to France's vibrant Yellow Train and Romania's charming Mocanita, Switzerland stands in a league of its own for truly captivating railway experiences. Travel luminary Rick Steves consistently points to this small nation as home to the continent's most visually stunning rail journeys. Among his top picks is the illustrious Golden Pass route, winding from the Montreux Riviera along Lake Geneva to the Bernese Highlands, and the magnificent Bernina Express, a remarkable passage through the Alps that showcases glaciers, pristine lakes, and a UNESCO World Heritage site.
What distinguishes the Bernina Express as a must-experience adventure? This iconic rail line originates in the picturesque Swiss city of Chur, easily accessible from Zurich Airport, and extends across the Italian border, culminating in Tirano, Lombardy. The 90-mile, four-hour expedition is a testament to engineering ingenuity, spanning 196 bridges and piercing through 55 tunnels. Passengers are treated to an ever-changing panorama of snow-capped peaks and vibrant turquoise alpine lakes, creating an immersive journey through a majestic landscape.
A significant highlight of this extraordinary journey is the passage over the Landwasser Viaduct, an impressive six-arch bridge designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Reaching an astounding altitude of 7,391 feet, the Bernina Express holds the distinction of being the highest railway crossing in Europe. Its remarkable gradient, peaking at 7%, also positions it among the steepest adhesion railways globally, showcasing a marvel of railway design and operation.
Along the route, travelers will marvel at the majestic Morteratsch glacier and a trio of exquisite lakes—Lej Pitschen, Lej Nair, and Lago Bianco. A strategic stop at Alp Grüm, a quaint railway station, offers a unique vantage point over the Palü Glacier. The Bernina Express operates year-round, making advance reservations crucial due to its popularity. Fares for a one-way trip from Chur to Tirano vary by class, with second-class tickets starting from $83 and first-class from $142. For those seeking the ultimate viewing experience, back cars feature panoramic windows extending into the roof, with prices ranging from $165 to $283. Children aged 6 to 16 receive a 50% discount, while those under 6 travel free. Although there's no dedicated dining car, snacks and beverages are available onboard. Passes such as the Swiss Travel Pass, Eurail, and Interrail are valid on the Rhaetian Railway, though a supplementary seat reservation fee applies. Securing accommodations in advance is highly recommended due to the train's popularity. In Chur, options like Ambiente Hotel Freieck (from approximately $196 per night) and Da Mamma restaurant provide convenient lodging and dining near the station. In Tirano, Hotel Ristorante Bernina Tirano offers stays starting around $145 per night. For thrill-seekers, Switzerland also offers other notoriously steep railway climbs, providing additional opportunities to explore the breathtaking Swiss Alps.