In a monumental achievement for the world of alpinism, French climbers Leo Billon and Enzo Oddo have successfully completed the inaugural free ascent of the formidable Lafaille route on the West Face of the 3,733-meter Petit Dru. This ascent, executed between August 5th and 7th, represents a significant milestone in mountaineering, transforming a notorious aid-climbing line into a testament to pure free-climbing prowess.

Pioneering Spirit on the Lafaille Route

The journey to conquer the Lafaille route in a free-climbing style began with an initial reconnaissance. Billon and Oddo first navigated the complex terrain using traditional aid climbing methods, employing pitons and fixed ropes for support. This initial push, completed in a single day, served as a crucial preliminary exploration, allowing the duo to understand the intricate challenges posed by the route. Their methodical approach laid the groundwork for the subsequent, more ambitious free ascent, where the true test of skill and endurance would come into play.

Returning to the imposing West Face, the French duo embarked on their groundbreaking free ascent. This phase demanded an entirely different level of commitment, as they eschewed artificial aids, relying solely on their strength, technique, and mental fortitude. The climb involved strategically establishing two bivouacs directly on the sheer rock face, allowing them to rest and strategize during the multi-day push. Each climber took turns leading the most demanding sections, a testament to their strong partnership and shared determination. What was once considered an A5+ rated aid climb was meticulously re-evaluated and ultimately conquered as an 8b+ free climb, pushing the boundaries of what was thought possible on this iconic peak. Following their successful summit, they executed a series of 10 rappels to retrieve their gear, enjoyed a much-needed meal, and completed their descent to the base by early evening, spending the night there before returning to the valley.

Legacy and Impact in High-Altitude Climbing

This triumphant free ascent by Billon and Oddo is more than just a personal victory; it is a notable contribution to the historical narrative of the Petit Dru. The West Face has long been renowned for its extreme technical demands, earning its reputation as one of the most challenging big walls in the European Alps. The Lafaille route itself was first established in 2001 by the legendary French alpinist Jean-Christophe Lafaille, who completed a solo winter ascent using extensive aid climbing techniques. Billon and Oddo's ability to transition this route to a free ascent underscores their exceptional climbing abilities and keen understanding of complex alpine environments.

Their collaboration extends beyond this singular achievement. Leo Billon, a distinguished member of Chamonix's Military High Mountain Group (GMHM), frequently partners with Enzo Oddo, a civilian alpinist from Nice. This seasoned partnership has consistently yielded remarkable results, including their recent establishment of a new 700-meter route on the West Face of the Aiguille du Plan in June. Such accomplishments solidify their standing as leading figures in contemporary alpinism, continually pushing the boundaries of human endurance and skill in some of the world's most unforgiving landscapes. Their latest success on the Petit Dru not only honors the legacy of those who came before but also inspires a new generation of climbers to pursue seemingly impossible dreams.