In a climbing season fraught with difficulties, two accomplished mountaineers, Ales Cesen from Slovenia and Lukas Woerle from Austria, demonstrated exceptional adaptability and skill. They successfully completed a pioneering ascent of Cherireen Sar, a 6,224-meter peak located in Pakistan's isolated Shimshal Valley. This impressive feat, achieved despite challenging conditions, underscores their prowess and determination in high-altitude environments.
Their journey was not without its hurdles. Originally, Cesen and Woerle had set their sights on Khurdopin Sar, another formidable peak in the region. However, after assessing the precarious and unsafe conditions on their initial target, they made a strategic decision to shift their focus. This quick thinking and willingness to adapt their plans ultimately led them to the untouched summit of Cherireen Sar, marking a significant milestone in Himalayan exploration. Their successful climb serves as a testament to their deep understanding of alpine environments and their ability to navigate unforeseen obstacles.
An Unforeseen Path to Glory
The expedition faced numerous challenges, starting with the difficult approach to their original objective, Khurdopin Sar, which presented dangerous conditions and massive cornices. Realizing the prohibitive risks, Cesen and Woerle pivoted their attention to Cherireen Sar. After a week of acclimatization, they began their ascent on July 28, enduring a night of torrential rain and strong winds at their bivy site. Despite the harsh weather, they pressed on, navigating unstable rock in the dark. As dawn broke, conditions improved, and at 5,500 meters, they resolved to push for the summit, ultimately achieving their first ascent of the 6,224-meter peak on July 29 after a rigorous 17-hour climb.
The Shimshal Valley, nestled in a remote corner of Pakistan bordering the Wakhan Corridor, Xinjiang, and Ladakh, offered the kind of untamed landscape Cesen and Woerle sought. Their initial goal, Khurdopin Sar, has eluded many, and a reconnaissance revealed its approach was too hazardous, with immense cornices adorning the summit ridge. Consequently, they turned their attention to Cherireen Sar, hoping for a more favorable route. The climb proved demanding, with the lower sections dominated by loose, treacherous rock. The continuous focus required to avoid falls, combined with the lack of water at their overnight camp, added layers of difficulty. Their unwavering concentration, both physical and mental, was crucial throughout the 17-hour non-stop push, culminating in their safe return to Base Camp.
Legacies Forged in the Mountains
Ales Cesen, a 43-year-old Slovenian climber, carries on a family tradition of mountaineering excellence, following in the footsteps of his legendary father, Tomo Cesen. Ales has garnered two prestigious Piolet d'Or awards, first in 2015 for the pioneering ascent of Hagshu's north face in the Indian Himalaya, and again in 2019 for his climb of Latok I's north ridge in the Karakoram. His recent achievements include one of 2024's top ascents: the West Ridge of Gasherbrum III. Despite an ankle injury earlier in the year, Cesen made a full recovery, ensuring his participation in this latest successful expedition. His collaboration with Lukas Woerle began during an acclimatization climb on Gasherbrum II, leading to a strong partnership that has since seen them conquer European peaks together.
Lukas Woerle, 32, an Austrian climber, paraglider, and skier, is also celebrated for his mountaineering feats and, notably, his humanitarian spirit. Two years prior, Woerle gained widespread recognition in Pakistan for selflessly abandoning his summit bid on Broad Peak to assist a stranded local climber. This act of compassion stood out amidst a season where another porter, Muhammad Hassan, tragically perished on K2. Woerle's heroic behavior earned him a nomination for a civil award and a complimentary climbing permit for the subsequent year, highlighting his dedication not only to the mountains but also to the well-being of his fellow climbers. His partnership with Cesen further cements his reputation as a formidable and respected figure in the climbing community.