Island Travel
Beyond Pasta and Pizza: Rick Steves' Italian Culinary Revelation
2025-09-07

Venturing beyond the familiar pasta and pizza, a celebrated travel authority spotlights a distinct culinary delight from Italy's northern reaches: speck. This cured and smoked ham, originating from the mountainous Alto Adige region, presents a compelling alternative for those seeking to broaden their gastronomic horizons. With its unique preparation and flavor, speck stands as a testament to Italy's diverse culinary landscape, inviting exploration into a lesser-known, yet equally captivating, facet of its food culture.

Italy, a global beacon for culinary excellence, is frequently celebrated for its iconic pizzas and pastas. However, Rick Steves, a distinguished voice in international travel, advocates for a departure from these staples to explore the nuanced flavors of speck. This unique raw, air-cured meat is a specialty of the Alto Adige region, also known as South Tyrol, nestled in Northern Italy. Steves suggests that even moderately adventurous palates should experience this distinctive offering at least once, describing it as a welcome diversion from typical Italian dishes.

Steves articulates his appreciation for this culinary diversion, noting, \"During a trip through Italy, I enjoy a break from pizza and pasta.\" He further elaborates on his blog that while sausages and sauerkraut are common Tirolean fare, more intrepid diners seek out speck. The flavor profile of speck is often compared to prosciutto crudo, though it possesses a more pronounced and robust character. Culinary connoisseurs often attribute a subtle essence of the Dolomite Mountains, where it is traditionally produced, to an authentic speck.

The meticulous process of crafting speck, steeped in centuries of regional tradition, commences with a deboned pork leg. This is then generously rubbed with a blend of aromatic spices, including bay leaves and juniper berries, and left to marinate for several weeks. Following this, the meat undergoes a three-week cold smoking period utilizing indigenous woods such as spruce or pine, which imparts a distinctive taste to each cut. The final stage involves a 24-week dry aging process, culminating in the rich, complex flavors of authentic speck.

To ensure authenticity, true speck must carry the Speck Alto Adige Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), or IGP on Italian products. This certification is a hallmark of quality, with only 29 producers currently holding this esteemed designation, signifying rigorous regulation throughout the entire production process. Nevertheless, numerous providers offer high-quality non-PGI speck, which still offers an excellent initial introduction to this delicacy.

For the most genuine experience of speck, a journey to Alto Adige (South Tyrol or Südtirol) is highly recommended. This region, characterized by its serene lakes and dramatic limestone peaks, offers a less congested atmosphere compared to popular destinations like Rome or Florence. Its cultural fabric is interwoven with Germanic influences, evident in many German-derived food terms. Travelers can reach major cities like Bolzano, considered the gateway to the Dolomites and a melting pot of Austrian and Italian cultures, by train from international airports in Milan or Rome.

Upon arrival, savoring speck in its traditional form is a must: thinly sliced and paired with Schüttelbrot (rye flatbread) and a glass of local wine. Another culinary highlight is canederli di speck, substantial dumplings filled with cheese, leftover herbs or vegetables, and, of course, speck. These are commonly served in broth, though they can also be enjoyed with butter. For an immersive experience, consider attending the annual Speck Festival South Tyrol, held at Mt. Plan de Corones.

However, an excursion to the northern regions is not a prerequisite to sample this regional specialty. Speck-infused dishes can be found in various restaurants across Italy, from Roman pizzerias to coastal eateries along the stunning Amalfi Coast. Keep an eye out for \"pizza speck\" for an accessible introduction to this cured meat, or try ravioli stuffed with speck. Yet, one of the simplest and most satisfying ways to enjoy this delicacy is as an antipasto, presented alongside an assortment of other cured meats and cheeses, allowing its distinct character to shine.

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