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A Historic Ascent: Triumph on Manaslu's Untamed Southwest Face

A Daring Five-Day Alpine Journey

In what is proving to be an exceptional climbing season in Nepal, a Russian expedition, spearheaded by Andrey Vasiliev, achieved a significant feat. On October 22, at 1 PM local time, his team successfully reached the summit of Manaslu. This triumph followed an arduous five-day alpine-style ascent up the mountain's Southwest Face, battling frigid temperatures and relentless winds.

The Unassisted Summit Push

Vasiliev, accompanied by Sergey Kondrashkin, Natalia Belyankina, Kirill Eizeman, and Vitaly Shipilov, initiated their climb of Manaslu's southwest flank after completing an acclimatization ascent via the standard route. Their second, more ambitious attempt involved tackling a new, more treacherous path without fixed ropes, external support, or established trails, undertaking the formidable challenge entirely on their own.

Pioneering a New Path on a Legendary Face

The Southwest Face of Manaslu has historically been dominated by Reinhold Messner's 1972 route, often referred to as the Tyrolean route. This original ascent, famously completed without supplemental oxygen, tragically cost Messner his climbing partner, Franz Jaeger. While Messner's line has seen repeat ascents, no team had ever dared to forge a direct path through the face's center until now. Although Vasiliev's initial plan was to ascend directly, hazardous conditions necessitated a deviation to the left side, where they ultimately established a novel connection to the summit ridge, merging with the Messner/Tyrolean track.

Relentless Progress Towards the Apex

The expedition's progress was a testament to their unwavering determination. On October 17, the climbers established a high camp at 6,900 meters, confirming the viability of their chosen line. By October 20, they had pushed to 7,500 meters, spending the night in a snow cave. Despite only gaining 200 vertical meters on October 21, the proximity of the summit fueled their resolve. Vasiliev's satellite message conveyed their position at 7,700 meters on the ridge, having navigated challenging terrain, and their intention to reach the peak the following day.

The Perilous Return and Weather Challenges

Following their triumphant summit, a message from Vasiliev confirmed their return to the tent, describing the ascent as "tough" and noting intense winds at the top. The team now faces a critical and challenging descent, needing to move swiftly as weather forecasts predict an increase in gale-force winds from the west and southwest throughout the week. Further details of their extraordinary journey are eagerly awaited upon their safe return to Base Camp.