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Conquering the Uncharted: A New Chapter on Cho Oyu

The Return of a Formidable Duo to Nepal's Peaks

Marek Holecek, hailing from Czechia, has returned to Nepal with a bold objective: to establish a pioneering path on the Southeast Face of the towering Cho Oyu. For this demanding undertaking, Holecek is partnering with Radoslaw Groh, continuing their successful collaboration from 2021 and 2022. This expedition takes place after a poignant year for Holecek, whose Slovakian climbing partner, Ondrej Huserka, tragically lost his life during the descent from their groundbreaking first ascent of Langtang Lirung's East Face in 2024.

Strategic Base Camp Establishment in the Khumbu Valley

Setting out from Gokyo, Holecek and Groh have meticulously established their base camp within the breathtaking Khumbu Valley, strategically positioned a day's journey away. Their camp now stands at the head of the expansive Ngozumpa Glacier, recognized as the longest glacier in the majestic Himalayas. Currently, the climbers are immersed in organizing their base camp operations and carefully evaluating several potential lines for their ascent up the Southeast Face, indicating a thoughtful and prepared approach rather than a hasty decision.

The Formidable Southeast Face of Cho Oyu

The southern, Nepalese flank of Cho Oyu presents an exceptionally arduous climbing challenge. Characterized by its steepness, extended length, and remote location, it significantly surpasses the difficulty of the standard Tibetan route. Historically, only a handful of expeditions have ventured onto this formidable side. Notably, Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko completed an alpine-style ascent in 2009, opening a route on the Southeast Face that bears similarities to the one Holecek and Groh are envisioning. Recent attempts in 2023 and 2024 by a Russian team led by Andrey Vassiliev, and a successful summit by a Nepalese team in 2024, underscore the persistent allure and formidable nature of this aspect of the mountain.

Radoslaw Groh: A Climber of Exceptional Caliber

Marek Holecek offers a vibrant portrayal of Radoslaw Groh, characterizing him as an impeccably conditioned athlete with an adventurous spirit and a profound passion for high-altitude environments. Beyond this vivid description, Groh, at 36 years old, is widely regarded as one of Czechia's most accomplished alpinists. His diverse skill set encompasses various mountain disciplines, including competitive ski mountaineering, sport climbing, and, crucially, elite high-altitude mountaineering. In 2024, Groh, alongside his frequent climbing partner Zdenek Hak, achieved the first complete ascent of Muchu Chhish, then the highest unclimbed peak open to climbers. Earlier in the current year, the duo also established a new route on the Southwest Face of Hunza Peak, further solidifying their reputation.

Marek Holecek's Philosophy: High Ambition, High Risk

Marek Holecek, a recipient of the prestigious Piolet d’Or for his 2019 new route on Chamlang (7,319m) with Zdenek Hak, consistently undertakes one major expedition annually. His endeavors are marked by exceptionally ambitious objectives and technically demanding routes. Known for his expressive social media presence, Holecek's climbing philosophy champions the alpine style and single-push ascents. These approaches inherently involve substantial risks, a reality reflected in his history of enduring severe storms and narrowly escaping life-threatening situations. The inherent dangers of his chosen path are further underscored by the tragic loss of two climbing partners: Zdenek Hruby on Gasherbrum I in 2013, and Ondrej Huserka, who perished in a crevasse on Langtang Lirung just last yea