A recent expedition saw two accomplished Georgian climbers, Giorgi Tepnadze and Bakar Gelashvili, successfully forge three groundbreaking new paths in the challenging terrain of Afghanistan's Hindu Kush mountain range. This significant journey was undertaken in memory of their former climbing partner, Archil Badriashvili, who tragically passed away last year. Their remarkable achievements included pioneering the first ascent of Mudrichili Peak, establishing a novel route on Languta-e-Barfi, and completing a demanding alpine-style ascent of Koh-e Langar, showcasing exceptional skill and unwavering commitment to their sport.
The mountaineers' endeavors not only expanded the known climbing routes in the region but also served as a profound homage to a cherished companion. Their success underscores the spirit of exploration and remembrance that drives such ambitious undertakings in the world's most formidable peaks.
The recent mountaineering expedition by Georgian climbers Giorgi Tepnadze and Bakar Gelashvili into Afghanistan's Hindu Kush was not just about conquering new heights but also about honoring the legacy of their late teammate, Archil Badriashvili. Following their previous Piolet d'Or win in 2021 for the first ascent of Saraghrar Northwest, the trio had planned further explorations in the region. Badriashvili's untimely death last year from a lightning strike in the Caucasus left a void, but his partners were determined to realize their shared dream. Their journey began in early August, focused on the 7,100m Koh-e Langar, a peak strategically located between Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi, another summit they had previously pioneered. This expedition, steeped in remembrance, saw them achieve three significant ascents, cementing their place in mountaineering history while paying a heartfelt tribute to their friend.
The Georgian team's venture into the Hindu Kush was marked by both emotional significance and impressive technical achievements. Their choice of Koh-e Langar for the 2025 expedition was particularly poignant, given its proximity to peaks they had explored with Badriashvili. Before tackling their primary objective, the duo undertook two crucial acclimatization climbs, both resulting in new routes. On August 13, they achieved the first ascent of the 6,125m Mudrichili Peak, a five-day round trip from Base Camp covering 1,827 vertical meters of challenging terrain. Subsequently, they established a new route on the 6,833m Languta-e-Barfi, affectionately known as \u201cThe Bride of Hindu Kush.\u201d This three-day ascent involved two bivouacs and covered 2,033 vertical meters, with both routes graded 5th Caucasian (TD \u2014 very difficult). These preparatory climbs not only honed their skills but also represented remarkable achievements in themselves, setting the stage for their main objective and deepening the tribute to their fallen comrade.
After successfully completing two demanding acclimatization ascents, the Georgian mountaineers, Giorgi Tepnadze and Bakar Gelashvili, turned their attention to the primary goal of their expedition: Koh-e Langar. This formidable peak, standing at an elevation typically cited as 7,134 meters, was summited by the team on September 2. Their InReach device on the summit recorded a slightly different elevation of 7,125 meters, a minor discrepancy that does not diminish the immense achievement. The ascent of Koh-e Langar was executed in a pure alpine style, reflecting their commitment to traditional climbing ethics. This challenging 2,334-meter-long route was graded as 6th Caucasus category, which is equivalent to an extremely difficult (ED) rating in the Alps, highlighting the severe technical demands and high altitude involved in their ascent.
The climb of Koh-e Langar itself was a testament to the climbers' endurance and expertise, unfolding over a continuous four-day push. While specific details of the technical challenges encountered on the route are yet to be fully disclosed, the grading of 6th Caucasus category \u2014 an ED in the alpine system \u2014 indicates a highly technical and exposed climb. This level of difficulty typically involves sustained steep ice and mixed climbing, often with significant objective hazards. The decision to undertake this ascent in alpine style \u2014 carrying all gear from base to summit without fixed ropes or external support \u2014 further emphasizes the self-reliance and strength required. Their triumphant summiting of Koh-e Langar not only marked the successful culmination of their expedition but also stood as a powerful and enduring tribute to Archil Badriashvili, fulfilling the team's collective aspiration in the heart of the Hindu Kush.