Embark on a captivating journey through the rugged heart of Egypt's Sinai Peninsula, a land where ancient history intertwines with breathtaking natural beauty. This article chronicles an immersive hiking and camping expedition that delves deep into Sinai's less-explored territories, guided by the local Bedouin expertise of 'Sinai Hikes'. Unlike the crowded coastal resorts, this adventure offers an authentic encounter with the region's profound religious heritage, including the ancient Saint Catherine's Monastery, and the vibrant traditions of its Bedouin communities. From scaling historic peaks to sharing meals under a starlit desert sky, the experience highlights a commitment to sustainable tourism that honors both the land and its people, providing a stark contrast to conventional travel and fostering a deeper appreciation for this mystical landscape.
The Sinai Peninsula, a vast triangular landmass bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the north and the Red Sea's two gulfs to the south, extends far beyond its well-known resort towns like Sharm El Sheikh and Dahab. While these coastal areas are famed for diving and luxury, the interior of Sinai, an expanse larger than Switzerland, holds a rich tapestry of history, culture, and untouched wilderness. This region is a sacred crossroad for Islam, Christianity, and Judaism, echoing with biblical narratives such as Moses's flight and his encounter with the Burning Bush, leading to the Exodus story.
Central to Sinai's religious significance is the sixth-century Saint Catherine’s Monastery, nestled at the foot of Mount Sinai, or Jebel Musa, believed to be the site where Moses received the Ten Commandments. This monastery stands as the world’s oldest continuously operating Christian monastic institution, safeguarding invaluable ancient manuscripts and icons. For centuries, the local Jebeliya tribe has served as its dedicated protectors, ensuring its preservation and the continuity of its spiritual legacy. The author recounts a previous visit to Mount Sinai that, despite its beauty, lacked the intimacy of her latest trip.
This current expedition, organized by 'Sinai Hikes,' offers a distinctively authentic experience. Led by Ahmed Mousa, a 28-year-old Jebeliya tribesman and entrepreneur, the group ventures along unmarked trails, encountering few other travelers. Mousa, who began guiding with his uncle as a teenager, emphasizes the profound connection between Sinai's dramatic landscapes and its rich cultural heritage. His company, established in 2022, provides small-group hikes and personalized tours ranging from 4 to 13 days, exploring the mountains and valleys surrounding Saint Catherine’s Monastery, alongside day trips, jeep excursions, and camel safaris.
The journey commenced with a flight from Cairo to Sharm El Sheikh, followed by a three-hour drive to Saint Catherine. Opting for an overnight stay at Fox Camp, a modest 15-room property, ensured a restful start before the hike. The first day involved a 7.5-mile trek through valleys and an ascent of Mount Abbas. The pace was unhurried, allowing for appreciation of the crumbling peaks against the blue sky, with guides Ahmed Mousa and his cousin Taher, both in traditional galabiyas and sturdy hiking boots, leading the way. Along an ancient garden-lined trail, the group visited Um Saad, a 72-year-old Jebeliya woman who lives peacefully with her goats in the mountains, tending her gardens and overseeing mosque construction.
Mount Abbas, named after the 19th-century governor of Egypt and Sudan, Abbas Helmy I, who planned a palace retreat here, offers panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and Saint Catherine town below. The ongoing 'Great Transfiguration Project' by the Egyptian government, aiming to develop the area with luxury hotels, eco-lodges, and expanded airport facilities, is visible from the summit. While this project has sparked debate regarding the preservation of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Mousa views it as an opportunity to attract global visitors and enable Bedouin communities to create sustainable livelihoods that maintain Sinai's traditions.
After descending Mount Abbas, a welcome lunch of local staples like salad, baba ghanoush, hummus, baladi bread, and fresh fruit provided much-needed replenishment. A subsequent 2.5-mile hike led to the campsite, where tents and a comfortable majlis-style seating area around a campfire awaited. The evening concluded with a satisfying meal of soup and fire-grilled chicken, enjoyed under a sky full of stars, disconnected from phone signals and immersed in the serene mountain environment. This peaceful solitude offered a profound sense of tranquility.
The second day began with the aroma of freshly roasted coffee by Mousa and a breakfast featuring farashee, a thin Bedouin bread. The day's roughly seven-mile hike included Mount Naaga, a less-trodden peak requiring some scrambling over boulders. Efforts were rewarded with unparalleled views of the Sinai trekking trail, encompassing the El-Tih Plateau and the remote village of Sheikh Awad. The journey culminated at Mousa's grandfather's garden, a renowned herbal healer and expert on Sinai's flora, who has passed on much of his knowledge to Mousa. Dr. Ahmed Mansour, 77, shares his wisdom as the 'herbal doctor of Saint Catherine' and has established a school to educate future generations in herbal medicine.
On the final morning, breakfast included libba, another type of Bedouin bread baked in fire embers. A short hike led to a minibus ride to Saint Catherine’s Monastery itself, allowing exploration of its treasures, including ancient manuscripts and golden-haloed icons. The monastery's UNESCO status highlights its importance to three monotheistic religions and its striking rocky setting. The trip concluded with a visit to Selema Gabaly, a Bedouin woman who, through her Fansina (art of Sinai) initiative since 1998, empowers women to create and sell traditional handicrafts globally, supporting their families. The return journey to Cairo, marked by a two-hour wait at a security checkpoint, provided a stark contrast to the mountains' tranquility, reinforcing the author's desire to return to Sinai's serene embrace.