newsgathers

Following a recent powerful storm, numerous alpine climbing teams are embarking on ambitious expeditions across Nepal's majestic peaks. Among the most anticipated is the French duo, Benjamin Vedrines and Nicolas Jean, who are set to tackle the formidable 2,300-meter north face of Jannu East (7,468m) in a pure alpine style. Simultaneously, solo climber Lucien Bocansaud is preparing for challenging ascents of both Khangri Shar and Num Ri. Elsewhere, a dedicated Japanese team is focused on achieving a first ascent on the previously unclimbed Bijora Hiunchuli. The climbing community is buzzing with these and other, yet-to-be-revealed, endeavors by seasoned alpinists in the region, promising an exciting and demanding climbing season.

Nepal's Majestic Peaks Beckon: A Season of Daring Alpine Ascents

In the vibrant autumn of 2025, after the tumultuous weather systems receded, the high-altitude landscapes of Nepal became the focal point for a cohort of elite alpine climbers. On October 7, 2025, the Himalayan air was filled with anticipation as teams meticulously prepared for their challenging endeavors.

Among the most prominent expeditions, French mountaineers Benjamin Vedrines and Nicolas Jean have set their sights on the imposing 2,300-meter north face of Jannu East, a colossal peak standing at 7,468 meters. Vedrines articulated their commitment to a 'pure alpine style' ascent, emphasizing self-sufficiency, eschewing supplemental oxygen, fixed ropes, or external assistance. Their recent successful first ascent of the 'White Wave' has provided crucial acclimatization, yet the unpredictable weather, characterized by intense cold and strong winds, along with lingering heavy snowfall on the face, presents significant uncertainties. Their ambitious plan aims for a three-day summit push, acknowledging that five days would signify an unsuccessful attempt.

Concurrently, the intrepid Lucien Bocansaud is embarking on a solo alpine-style mission. He holds permits for both Khangri Shar, with an elevation varying between 6,792m and 6,811m according to different databases, and the 6,635-meter Num Ri. Num Ri, which only welcomed climbers in 2002, saw its first ascent by a German team that same year. Bocansaud, currently stationed in the high-altitude village of Chukhung in the Khumbu region, is diligently assessing the snow conditions on Num Ri, a critical factor after the recent severe blizzard. His decision on the precise route and climbing style hinges on these evaluations.

Further east, in the rugged Rolwaling area, a formidable trio comprising Adam Bielecki from Poland, Herve Barmasse from Italy, and Felix Berg from Germany is poised to forge a new path on Numbur Peak, an impressive almost-7,000’er also known as Numburchuli. Their journey to the base camp was complicated by torrential rains that rendered several roads impassable. Fortunately, they managed to reach Taksindu (3,100m), the trek's starting point, just before further road closures. They are currently establishing their base camp while retreating to Beni village (4,100m) for nights, awaiting improved weather and climbing conditions.

In the western reaches of Nepal, a Japanese contingent participating in the 2025 Himalaya Camp, comprising university students and emerging alpinists under the leadership of Yasuhiro Hanatani, faced a grueling 16-hour bus journey to Jumla due to the same heavy rainfall. Despite the arduous travel, they are now focused on their objective: the first ascent of the unclimbed 6,111-meter Bijora Hiunchuli.

Adding to the mystique of this climbing season, several other renowned alpinists, including Americans Andres Marin and Anna Pfaff, Czech climber Marek Holecek, Italian Francois Cazzanelli, British duo Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders, and the Swiss team of Silvan Schupbach, Stefan Siegrist, and Philippo Sala, have chosen to keep their specific objectives under wraps until they reach their respective Base Camps, fueling speculation and excitement within the climbing community.

The current climbing season in the Himalayas underscores the relentless spirit of human endeavor against nature's grandeur. These alpinists, with their diverse objectives and unwavering commitment to alpine style, embody the essence of exploration and the pursuit of human limits. Their journeys are not merely about conquering peaks but about pushing boundaries, testing resilience, and experiencing the raw beauty and formidable challenges of the world's highest mountains. As they navigate treacherous terrain, unpredictable weather, and the sheer scale of the Himalayas, their stories serve as a profound inspiration, reminding us of the enduring allure of adventure and the extraordinary capabilities of the human spirit.